No Dig Vegetable Growing

!!!SPRING SALE!!!! 50% OFF UNTIL MONDAY 21APRIL AT 5PM GMT!!!

PLUS SPRING BONUS – MARCH AND APRIL ISSUES OF THE MONTHLY GARDENING CLUB!

 

NO DIG VEGETABLE GROWING ONLINE COURSE

This Seven Module Home Study Course will teach gardeners all that he or she needs to successfully grow their own vegetables using no dig beds.The course covers the various types of beds we can make and how best to utilize these for fantastic results

DETAILS OF THE COURSE

The Course is split into 7 modules:

Module 1 – An Introduction To No Dig Beds

  • Overview of course aims
  • No Dig Concept
  • The History of No Dig Beds
  • How It Differs From Raised Beds/Classic Methods
  • The Pros and Cons of the No Dig Approach
  • What Are Lasagna And No Till Approaches
  • The Size Of The Beds
  • Construction Of 3 Basic Types Of Bed – and The Pros And Cons

Module 2 – Ingredients To Make Our Beds

  • the essentials -why they work, what the do within the bed
  • the desirable ingredients-why they work what the do within the bed
  • the beneficial extra ingredients-why they work what the do within the bed

Module 3 – How To Make Compost

  • how ingredients affect our compost
  • activators
  • types of compost bins -pros/cons
  • adding fertility with green manures

Module 4 – How to sow for best results

  • times to sow and optimum spacings (pdf/calender)
  • varieties
  • importance of provenance
  • how to harvest
  • multiple seeding
  • modules and there benefit’s

Module 5 – Specialist No Dig Beds

  • how to make specialist no dig beds
  • the pros and cons of specialist no dig beds
  • no dig potato beds
  • no dig bale beds
  • no dig hot bed
  • no dig bean bed
  • hot bed for propagation

Module 6 – Dealing With Slugs And Pests

  • common pests
  • common diseases
  • weeds and weedkillers pros/cons
  • permanent/perennial vegetables
  • nematodes and natural predators

Module 7 – Fertilizers

  • Fertilizers- what they are
  • how they act
  • trace elements -what they are
  • PH explanation and adjustment
  • Water 
  • liquid feeds-what they are -how to make
  • Compost tea-what they are -how to make
  • Ingredients to make our beds

ENROLLMENT

HOW THE COURSE WILL BE DELIVERED

Learn How To Garden has its own dedicated website where all our courses will be hosted.  Each course has its own designated ‘space’ and access for members is via a simple username and password that is emailed to you on the day the course commences.  (You can tick a box on the log on screen and the system will remember you for 2 weeks – so you don’t have to remember passwords all the time!)

Each module is delivered at weekly intervals.  Each lesson within each module has its own dedicated lesson page where you can watch the video tutorial for that topic, download the checklist (where applicable) and ask questions if you’re not sure about anything.

There are between 5 and 6 hours of video within the main course (but see the Bonus list below for additional videos.)

SO HOW MUCH DOES THE COURSE COST?

The current registration price for Version 1.0 of the course is £85.  Over time we anticipate adding more material to make the course even more valuable. As we do that, the price will increase to reflect the added value.

As well as the course itself you get two important bonuses:

BONUS 1 – A YEAR OF THE LEARN HOW TO GARDEN NEWSLETTER ARCHIVE (Value £30)

Every month we produce a subscribers only newsletter video – and one of the most common emails we get from new subscribers is how can people get access to previous newsletter videos. Up until now the answer has been that you can’t.

As well as the nearly 6 hours of video in the course itself you’ll also have access to 12 of the monthly newsletter videos that we’ve made in the members area.

BONUS 2 – UNLIMITED ACCESS TO COURSE (Value £50)

A lot of courses are ‘once and done’  You take the Course and that’s it – two weeks later if you forget what you learned then there’s nothing but your memories to cross reference!

With this course that’s not the case – if you want to review/refresh constituent parts of the course you can simply log in to the members area and find the section you want to review, hit play and you’re away.

The ability to do this is also a big factor in learning and applying the material.  You can watch and rewatch a section that you’re not sure about. And if you’re STILL not sure about it, then leave a question on the page and Mark will give you an answer (usually within 24 hours!)

To enroll, please click the Paypal button below and pay securely using your Paypal account or using a credit card:

 

 

Please note that you should get an email within 5 minutes with your log in details….if you don’t then please drop us an email.

 

WHAT IF I’M NOT SURE IF THE COURSE IS RIGHT FOR ME?

If you’re interested but not 100% sure there are two things you can do:

1.  You can use the contact form and ask me the questions you need answering before you can make a decision.

Or:

2.  You can enroll on the course anyway and if within the first 21 days you decide the course is not for you for any reason then simply drop us an email and we will refund the Course fee.

So it really should be a no-brainer – all the risk is on me.

12 thoughts on “No Dig Vegetable Growing”

  1. Will there be a link on your website to pre-register for your course when Friday get here? Just wondering how to go thru that process. Thanks

    1. Hi Beth

      Of course, you can pay for the course in dollars. Payment is via Paypal and is really straightforward and easy.

      Mark

  2. I live in Norway, and our climate is quite different. Will the course be relevant for a much colder climate? Just now we have at least 50 cm of snow covering the garden, and the frost goes deep into the ground.

    1. Hi Torunn
      My experience would say without a doubt using the No Dig method in raised beds would work for you. The reason I say this is one of my sons is a chef in the high Tarentaise where snow is normally on the ground from November to the end of April and his vegetable garden uses this method as it warms up quicker in the Spring, has a better balance of nutrients and soil organisms and by using varieties that have shorter growing seasons he achieves great results. Surprisingly once your beds are covered with snow it protects them from the endless rain that the other parts of the world get which do far greater damage by leaching nutrients out of the soil. There are one or two specialist seed companies who have a range of seeds which are sourced from very cold areas and are therefore better able to deal with some of the early frost you may get at the end of the season.
      I would recommend that you give my course a go and if it does not work for you I am more then happy to refund you.
      Mark

  3. Dear Mark
    Firstly, please wish Ben a belated happy birthday and my thanks to you both both the celebratory offer.

    Secondly, I already have a couple of 6 x 4 raised beds. 1 is 3′ deep the other 6’. The shallower one is prob no good, as I have planted raspberries in it! Could the other one be utilised, and what would be an ideal size, in a perfect world? I don’t have a big garden but I can, if necessary move things around and adapt a bit. I suffer from back issues hence the high bed and the reason for wanting to do the course, but like one of your sons, I too am a chef, so value the flavours, provenance and the joy of, home produce.
    Many thanks for your time and I look forward to hearing from you.

    Kind regards
    Neil
    Neil Rusbridger

    1. Hi Neil

      Thank you for the good wishes, really appreciated.

      You can utilise the shorter bed as well as the deeper one in fact to make it easier for you you could can use this technique and raise the bed giving you an even deeper soil to grow in. The one thing I would caution you on is that as they get raised significantly they can dry out more and for that reason it is good to use a lot of well rotted manure in their construction as this helps with both water drainage for healthy growth and conversely increases the water holding capacity of the bed. I have used a click and drip system to water deep beds which worked really well. As a chef one of the things you may find interesting is growing some horseradish in a pot as compared to what you buy the taste is dramatically different.

      Kind regards
      Mark

  4. Hi Mark

    Really appreciated the reduction in the price of the First Course as part of Bens Birthday Celebrations.

    I would love to go on and take in as many courses as you have to offer in succession.

    However I am not able to justify £85 at a time.

    If there was some way to pay for it in instalments it would make it more manageable.

    Best regards Penny

    1. Hi Penny

      Thank you so much for such a constructive idea and I am now seriously looking at this as an option for future course and will keep you informed.

      Kind regards

      Mark

  5. I really loved the first course veg growing for beginners are there anymore offers coming up???
    Also any news on the next course with Jo??

    Best regards

    Penny

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Teaching you how to grow your own vegetables and fruit